Here we go again...One Star rating and its a critics pick. Food, apparently a mix of boring, bad, and expensive...with the insanely expensive being the only truly reccomended option. $55 Truffle Mac and Cheese? Not unless its 75% truffle...which somehow I doubt. Then he says this:
"The whole place can be overwhelming and, indeed, absurd, a kind of pantomime vacation on the Riviera, here in Midtown. The waiters are hustling you to order Armagnacs to accompany frigid and tasteless chestnuts and cream, or leaden apple beignets. (Listen to them. You’ve spent this much!) Women dressed as Jennifer Lopez circa the Puffy gun trial bob heads to the music. There are many questions to be asked about plastic surgery and wealth management. "
So why the Star? Why a critics pick? Like every other place Sam Sifton thinks is worth a star...hot waitresses. I think perhaps Sam Sifton needs a shrink to work through some of his issues. This new found attention from attractive women in restaurants is not due to anything other than the job you do so poorly Mr. Sifton.